Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel was clearly a lady of good taste. You only have to glance at her understated yet elegant wardrobe of key tailored pieces and draped pearls to establish this. But she wasn’t just a fan – and of course, pioneer – of high fashion in her heyday; she was also an art lover, notoriously in love with the exquisite Chinese Coromandel screens after becoming enraptured with one when she was 18. The images on these beautiful modesty guards would continue to provide a rich source of inspiration for the future of Chanel, most recently demonstrated by the exclusive ten-piece collection of Mademoiselle Privé Coromandel watches.
Coromandel screens – named so after the Indian coast where the screens were loaded onto ships carrying goods to Europe – are a feast for the eyes in dark lacquer, adorned with figures, buildings and aspects of nature that tell a beautifully illustrated story. The glossy ground is carved, painted in gold and other luscious colours, and finished with an inlay of materials such as mother of pearl and ivory. It is possible to apply up to 30 layers of lacquer, each with their own details, creating a final design that is positively luminous against its deep foundation.
The work featured on these stunningly unique enamelled pieces calls for nothing less than a master ‘emailleuse’, and such a craftsperson comes in the form of Anita Porchet. A freelance enameller of imminent world fame, she has poured her skill and artistic license into the task, creating highly-detailed miniature illustrations of cranes, phoenixes and other winged specimens, in subtle shades of green and pink that is reminiscient of Coco Chanel’s private collection of screens. The Coromandel pieces are highly desirable, with the simplicity of the watch enhancing the elaborate Grand Feu artwork, and take pride of place amongst the other designs that comprise the entire Mademoiselle Privé collection.
The 37.5mm diameter of these pieces ensures that the artwork is large enough to astound, yet small enough not to overwhelm. In 18 carat white gold, the case features 571 snow-set diamonds of various diameters, interlocked to completely cover the base metal. Black American alligator leather marries the strap to the dial, featuring a white gold folding buckle with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds, and a self-winding movement that blends beautifully with the case. It is there that similarities between the ten designs – five of which are shown here – end, as each is then an artwork in its own right.
Birds are a firm favourite, and a perfect candidate for this delicately detailed work due to their feathery fineries and daintiness. Special attention has been paid to the various species depicted, each noticeably different from one another, some perhaps recognisable only to the discernible, trained eye of a bird fancier. That doesn’t mean enjoyability of the piece relies on strict ornithology studies; indeed, not all of the pieces see birds take centre stage, as one shows a river-going boat drifiting past foliage-covered verges. Perhaps for Chanel addicts, the sheer weight of meaning and symbology – associated with their fashion icon and carried by these watches – is enough to warrant a purchase.
