The Hermès family began trading as the makers of the finest wrought iron harness and bridle makers to the carriage trade in 1837. From there a shop was opened at 24 Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré, near the Palais de l’Elysée. It is at this location, still the Hermès shop today, where the son of founder Thierry Hermès, Charles-Émile Hermès, first introduced exquisitely crafted saddlery to noblemen.
Fast forward to 1978 and following in this tradition, Henri d’Origny designed the Arceau watch as a tribute to the House of Hermès’ 175 year old equestrian heritage. The Arceau Grande Lune watch is named after a saddlery element: a hoop-shaped part of the stirrup.
Fast forward another 33 years and, just in time for Baselworld 2011, a new version has been released. Echoing the case of the 43mm chronograph model, the Hermès Arceau Grande Lune watch is a complete calendar watch featuring day and month apertures. Its dial is stamped with a herringbone motif identical to that found on saddle rugs. The stamped rhodium numerals maintain the classic appearance of the original model, with a sloping design that follows the movement of the hands.
The broad opening at 6 o’clock highlights the moon disc and its rhodium stars designed by Hermès in a deep blue shade. The calendar display indexed around the moon disc is surrounded by a rhodium flange with a discreet sun burst effect. The moon-phase module created by Dubois-Dépraz is fitted to a self-winding movement that can be seen through the transparent case-back revealing what is known in horology as its circular-grained and snailed finishing adorned with Côtes de Genève. Admit it, you’ve always wanted a watch with a circular grained and snailed finish. No prices as yet but it’s bound to be reassuringly ruinous.
Technical Specifications
Movement: Mechanical self-winding movement, Dubois-Dépraz 9313 Large Moon module
Decoration: Circular-grained and snailed bridges
Oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève” motif
Functions: Hour, minute, centre-second
– hand indicating the date at 6 o’clock
– days display at 11 o’clock
– months display at 1 o’clock
– large moon display at 6 o’clock
Case: Steel, 43 mm diameter
Glass:Glare proof sapphire
Dials: 1) Opaline silvered with stamped herringbone motif and rhodium-plated hour-markers 2) Galvanic black with stamped herringbone motif and rhodium-plated hour-markers
Straps: 1) Matt Havana alligator 2) Matt graphite-black alligator, safety folding clasp
