The word dandy – the term for a man who affects elegance in clothes and manners – can conjure up negative connotations. Historically, especially in 18th and 19th century Britain, a dandy would often strive to imitate an aristocratic lifestyle despite coming from a middle-class, self-made background, and would go all out to impress by paying great attention to his daily appearance, spending a small fortune in order to do so. In these times of relative austerity, such efforts may seem vacuous and vain, but one cannot deny that first impressions are to this day, however unfairly, still based upon factors as superficial as style. There is no need to necessarily seek out clothes from ages gone by: dandyism is not defined by clothes from a certain era, but rather, a man’s approach to dressing. While the term has a long historical pedigree, certain 21st century men pull off the look with panache, by subtly following the same formula as the originator of the dandy look. Once you’ve got your wardrobe sorted, finding the perfect timepiece can help match the look to the lifestyle.

Beau Brummel

George Bryan “Beau” Brummel, an iconic figure in Regency England, has gone down in history as the first dandy, as a perennially well-dressed man-about-town, mixing in the best circles and spreading his sense of style far and wide.  His name alone conjures up images of sartorial splendour and excess – however, nothing could be further from the truth. Brummel’s personal style was in fact very simple and, compared to the opulence of his contemporaries, plain,  and could be reduced to a simple formula: perfect tailoring, immaculate grooming and a sober colour pallette. These conditions do not seem so far removed from what is considered the height of elegance to this day!

Brummel’s primary success was that he was responsible for the colours of the modern lounge suit: navy, blue, white and grey. While his peers sported bright and flashy hues, Brummel’s preference for more sober colours won out in the long run. While the modern dandy may chose to experiment with a wider range of colours, he will invariably return to the basic blues, whites and greys as the sartorial staples of formal-wear. Choosing the right watch helps bring these well-chosen outfits together.

Luca Rubinacci

Rubinacci, the great-grandson of the Mariano Rubinacci who founded one of the legendary Neapolition bespoke tailoring firms, embodies the archetypical modern dandy. His style is clean-cut and bold, without resorting to fashions that easily date and attract retrospective ridicule. He still manages to present himself boldly and memorably, with hues and styles that leave a lasting impression. It’s little wonder that he topped GQ’s list of Best Dressed Men two years running (check), beating George Clooney in the ranks of the sartorially successful. Rubinacci himself designs everything he wears: from garments such as coats, vests, to shoes, to accessories such as his pocket-squares, scarves, and even jewelery.

The watch – the U-Boat Clasico 53

At 53mm, this is one of the largest watches on the market. Size is a signature for U-Boat, who are famed for their larger-than-life timepieces. Despite its proportions, the Clasico 53 is a very stylish piece featuring a black case, a brown calf leather strap, steel plate and an automatic movement. U-Boat choose quality materials that age organically, so every watch becomes a unique entity that will age in accordance with its owner’s lifestyle. Water resistant to 100m, this is the watch to take on a seaside holiday, and so would suit Rubinacci’s playboy lifestyle perfectly.

Roger Moore

As the longest serving James Bond with a tenure spanning 7 films, Sir Roger Moore made the role all his own. With even Sammy Davis Jnr and Frank Sinatra asking Moore where he got his suits, it is clear that the star’s style was the envy of his contemporaries. He sports black polished leather derbies to go with his bespoke suits, and adheres to a strict colour pallette, even now that he has long stopped filming. Moore’s quickfire wit, as can be seen in his Bond films, adds favourably to his dandy credentials.

The watch: Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner

In the classic Bond movie Live and Let Die, Moore wears a Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner. Even if you aren’t a superspy trying to stop a heroin dealer achieving world domination, this watch is a beautiful piece and would complement a dandy’s outfit. With its embossed black dial and unidirectional bezel, the watch features gold hands and indices, and is complemented by a silver chain-link bracelet. Manufacture of this particular Submariner ceased in 1989. James Bond’s version fictitiously featured an in-built buzz-saw and magnetic field, but a regular Rolex Submariner of the period would be a commendable investment.

Nick Cave

The Australian singer-songwriter Nick Cave, whose music most often contains a dark and aggressive bent, has always looked good. Lauded by the designer Sir Paul Smith for his sartorial efforts, Nick Cave seldom disappoints with his suave look, reminiscent of late-60s London: he favours well-maintained three-piece suits, and wisely dresses to flatter his slender build by opting for clothing which accentuates his body type.

The watch: Cuervo y Sobrinos

Armando Rio y Cuervo first started selling own-brand Swiss-made watches in his jewellery shop in Havana in 1882. The brand’s watches were, in its heyday, sported by some of the greatest names in history, with Ernest Hemmingway,  Clark Gable and Winston Churchill sporting Cuervos.  The name faded into obscurity in the mid-20th century before being revived by two Italian entrepreneurs, who have emphasised the watches’ Cuban roots by naming some of the watches after cigars (the Robusto and Torpedo), and by supplying the watches in cedar-wood boxes that double as humidors. The Historiador Pequenos Segundos 130 Aniversario is a watch which which exudes understated charm. It has a super-slim, 40mm rose gold case and a superb hand-wound movement and would suit Cave’s elegant wardrobe perfectly.

The rules of dandy style: Do’s and Don’ts

Do:

• Dress according to the principles of harmony of shape, and contrast of colours
• Favour brands and tailors who offer bespoke services
• Invest in admirable shoes, and keep them pristine. However stylish your suit, the look won’t carry you far if you’re poorly shod
• Match your watch to your lifestyle, and seek out brands whose aesthetic matches your style
• Live within your means, avoiding the error of Beau Brummel, who died destitute in a debtor’s prison in Caen. An example of his excess was that he advised polishing boots with champagne to get the perfect sheen. Boot polish will do.

Don’t

• Be afraid to experiment. A strict colour pallette in clothes licences a little deviation in accessories
• Overdo it. You don’t want to leave a lasting impression for the wrong reasons – remember that as a general rule of thumb in times of incertitude, less is more.
• Follow trends. Dandyism is the antithesis of slavish conformity to fashion
• Vary too much in your appearance: once you’ve mastered your signature style, don’t disappoint any admirers you’ve accrued by suddenly changing your style. Consistency is key in the fickle world of fashion.