The world’s gaze recently fell on the Italian capital to witness the Papal election: a moment of political and religious change taking place against a backdrop of great historical import and unparalled architectural beauty. A short visit to the Eternal City can be a daunting prospect: Rome with its prestigious history and plethora of sites of interest threatens to leave the prospective holidaymaker with a sense of bewilderment: in a city whose highlights are well-documented in innumerable guidebooks, it can be hard to figure out where the best of the best is. Sadly, the gradual rise of the chain store is an inevitability in the capital, but the city is still choc-a-bloc with its old markets, piazzas and architectural surprises, in addition to the more tourist-orientated resorts and venues. Put down your trusty guidebook, avoid the tourist traps and pay heed to the hackneyed cliché ‘when in Rome, do as the Romans do’. Because the Romans, with their enviable quality of life, have the right idea.
Where to stay: Gran Melia
For a truly contemporary luxury experience in the Italian capital, you can’t go wrong with the Gran Melia The hotel boasts an exceptional location, on the banks of the river Tiber, and is enveloped by the spectacalar scenery of the Villa Aggripina, which once belonged to the mother of the infamous Emperor Nero. Enjoy the impressive pools and gardens and the fine dining options in tranquility: although this hotspot is centrally located, the grounds are such that you could easily imagine yourself to be deep in the Tuscan hills. The hotel’s décor and furnishings reflect contemporary Roman taste and leanings: a local would recommend the Gran Melia without hesitation.
The best ice cream in Rome
In the bustling metropolis that is Rome, ice cream parlours (gelaterias) can be found on every street corner. However, the vast majority are patronised only by tourists: locals prefer the superior quality and taste of a select few: Millenium (Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2/a, near the Vatican Museums), Old Bridge (Via Bastioni di Michelangelo 5, near St. Peter’s Square), and Giolitti (Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40, by the Pantheon). In Giolitti , the decor is pleasingly retrograde, with 1950s style typography and ornaments, and the flavours are all made from quality ingredients – try the champagne gelato, a perfect refreshment for a scorching spring day, made with enough Moet champagne to give you a buzz.
The best coffee in town: St Eustachio
Espresso: as with gelato, places to get coffee are ubiquitous in Rome. Coffee in the city is a daily ritual, taken very seriously. While it’s actually hard to find a bad espresso in Rome, distinguishing the best can be more tricky. Prices for coffee are more or less the same the city over. However, ask a local for the best espresso in town, and they’ll point you towards Sant Eustachio, found in the piazza of the same name. It is no exaggeration to say that this venerated coffee house is something of an institution: having been around since the time of Mussolini, the café has attracted a loyal clientele since its infancy, because of the unparalleled quality of its drinks. The bar’s walls are covered in its accolades in the national and international press, and it has most recently been praised for its Fair Trade involvement with cooperatives of producers from Guatemala, Ethiopia and Brazil.
Where to drink: Freni e Frizioni
This characterful watering hole, a favourite among creative types, actors and students, is located in an unlikely ex-garage surroundings – which explains why the name translates as ‘brakes and tyres’. Expect basketfuls of foccacia, honestly priced wine and beer and tables decked with roses and church candles: a haven of Olde Worlde charm.
Watch Shopping: Hausmann & Co
Hausmann & Co is a historical presence in the Italian capital – it has been in the same Via del Corso shop since 1794, and its watchmakers have the honour of being responsible for the maintenance of the precious Vatican clocks. The exclusive agent for Patek Phillipe and A. Lange & Sohne, the firm owns a famous technical assistance workroom, an irreplaceable point of reference for collectors from all over the world. In 2001, a second shop in the Via del Condotti opened, where works of important Italian and international artists are exhibited. Even if you’re not looking to buy or get a repair done, a visit to Hausmann & Co is highly recommended for watch enthusiasts, and the friendly staff are on hand to show you their latest models.
