Hermes Dressage 1837

Hermes launched their new Dressage watch at Baselworld 2012. Created by Henri d’Origny in 2003, the aesthetic is more contemporary while remaining true to its original look.

While the case retains its dimensions, a larger opening for the black or opaline silver dial emphasises its roundness and the openworked dauphine hands. The bevelled tonneau shape accentuates the curve and character of the timepiece, which comes in two versions in pink gold and eight in steel.

Hermes Dressage watch 2012

Depending on the metal of the case, the hands (as well as the eight hour markers and three raised Arabic numerals) come either rhodium-plated or in rose gold.

Hermes have recently moved into the serious watchmaking arena by not only redesigning its elegant Dressage family of watches, but by introducing its first in-house movement, aptly named the H1837.

Hermes Dressage watch 2012 close up

Both watches are powered by this new H1837 Manufacture calibre with small seconds or date at 6 o’clock. The calibre is also ready to power much more complicated watches, including “grand complications”: perpetual calendars, minute repeaters and more.

The movement was produced together with Hermes’ long standing partner Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, the Swiss ebauche maker. With 193 parts, beating at a standard 28,800 vibrations per hour and built on 28 jewels, the new base movement features a double-barrel design with a power reserve of at least of 50 hours.

Hermes Dressage watch dial

The leather strap on which the watch comes is selected in accordance with the long standing saddle-making traditions of Hermès, crafted in the company’s ateliers in Switzerland.

The pink gold version with a black dial and alligator strap is a 175-piece limited series, in reference to the 175-year history of Hermès. No prices published as yet.

Specifications

Movement: Automatic, Vaucher Manufacture H1837, 193 parts, 50-hour power reserve
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds

Case: 18K pink gold or stainless steel, 40.5 x 38.4 mm Water-resistant to 50 m/5 ATM

Dial: Opaline silver or black, stamped vertical striping in the centre, openworked dauphine hands, rhodium-plated or pink gold raised hourmarkers and numerals, small seconds at 6 o’clock

Bracelet/Strap: Matt Havana alligator strap, matt black alligator strap or stainless steel bracelet

Philip Kaspar

Philip Kaspar

Philip is widely travelled and has worked as a freelance journalist covering several topics including fashion, travel and watches. He also spent five years in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry in La Chaux de Fonds. Philip reports on all the latest watch news and is our WatchCrime reporter.

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